Our Design Process
We offer skillfully and technically informed landscape architecture. Our designs aim for high social, environmental, and aesthetic functionality.
Let me introduce my design process - the dos, don’ts, and methods
A variety of well-suited materials, hardy plants that retain their shape, and long-term use planning are part of my methods to create low-maintenance lasting landscapes or outdoor spaces. The same goes for residential yards and acreages; commercial patios, streetscapes, and parks; industrial reclamation; or any other outdoor space that can benefit from a landscape design and maintenance plan.
I do not design lawns. Lawns can be incorporated as a great aspect of a space but generally require more maintenance and resources than environmentally conscious design elements that require less work and more enjoyment. I want you to enjoy your space instead of constantly working on it!
I love to use all kinds of design principles when drawing up a unique fit for your space – clean and curved lines, naturalised and native vegetation, cozy spaces with a sense of serenity, comfortable urban plazas and parks, xeriscapes (a lawn-free space that uses groundcovers like rocks and mulch, along with drought tolerant vegetation that allows rainwater absorption and low watering requirements) and living labs (an experiment of new types of installations or plantings to see how they will adapt in their surroundings – an ongoing design approach) to name a few. Any style you favour helps to determines the visual outcomes for the space.
During our initial site consultation, I aim to provide you with as much feedback as I can. In addition to discussing design outcomes, I can provide you with knowledge about which types of plants will work, which materials, how much materials, different types of site preparation, etc. With this, I believe you can make an informed decision on what will work best for your space, and what to look for in a good contractor or for your own installation.
My goal is to design an oasis fit to your needs. My design approach begins with the client’s wish list for their space, with considerations of aesthetic preferences, budget, and existing site conditions. When working with a budget, it is best to consider the return on the long-term investment as well as the upfront costs. I am happy to discuss all options on site and throughout the design process to find the best fit for your design.
FAQs
What is landscape architecture?
Landscape architecture can be defined many ways, although it always includes a balance of social and ecological systems – planning and management for spaces designed for people and their environment, and how they will live on through time.
“Design with living things distinguishes landscape architecture from all other arts.” -John R. Stilgoe
What is a landscape?
A landscape can be any type of outdoor space, and can define any part of the environment we live in. When we refer to landscape design, any outdoor space can be designed or benefit from a management plan for it’s long-term success, maintenance, and functional fit. Go big when thinking of your next designed outdoor space that you would like to experience. We can start with a blank slate or update an existing space. The ones most often thought of are front and back yards or gardens, but can also include projects involving stormwater management, rooftops, exterior walls, balconies, or courtyards to name a few.
What does your design experience include?
My educational background includes a bachelor’s and master’s degree in Landscape Architecture where I worked through a variety of commercial and industrial projects from the regional scale, down to the detail scale. My thesis work was designing reclamation strategies for Canadian Oil Sands mines for a practical site near Fort McMurray. I worked as a landscape designer and estimator for three seasons for a local Grande Prairie landscape contractor. My clients included mainly residential city properties and rural acreages, with some commercial sites as well. Through these projects, I addressed varying degrees of conceptual design, site layout, construction documentation, detail design, estimation, booking and scheduling, and coordinating installation with any subcontractors (or installation by the client). I take pride in my client communication to keep all participants informed and provide helpful answers to all questions. My previous experience includes my passion for design in all aspects with work as junior designer in an interior design office and a sales assistant with a new home builder.
What is a Landscape Architect, and how does it compare to a landscape designer or landscape architectural technologist?
What’s in a name? A lot actually. I have my Master’s Degree in Landscape Architecture – as in I am educationally trained as a landscape architect but without the registered name ‘Landscape Architect’. The registration process allows a Landscape Architect to stamp structural drawings (think of a constructed waterfall or urban plaza with tiered seating). As I recently completed my master’s degree, I do not yet have the required hours working under a Landscape Architect that go along with registration, although I am trained in landscape architecture. I have a technical, theoretical, and artistic knowledge of the practice and three years of practical experience as a landscape designer, consultant, and estimator. A landscape designer can be someone who simply designs landscapes regardless of the amount of training or experience, or it can be someone such as myself, with a landscape architecture background. The name landscape designer does not designate a particular background – ask for their experience or qualifications for a better idea. A Landscape Architectural Technologist is someone with a technical training diploma to produce landscape architectural drawings that they can stamp and send out for structural construction. Clear as mud? I know it is a lot! Let’s chat if you would like more information.
Do I need stamped construction documentation?
It depends on what you would like to do! A design can be drawn for construction and not have structurally significant elements (ie. retaining walls over a certain height) which do not require stamped drawings for installation. Many contractors also have their own certification to install certain structural elements (like a retaining wall certification or porous pavement) in which case would also not require stamped drawings – the level of detail would be dependent on what you or the contractor needs to understand the constructed result and how specific you would like to annotate the details (ie. hidden joints/connections or a specific directional lay of the materials). Always check which certifications a contractor has and are necessary for your installation. If I need drawings stamped for structural stability, I will have a sub-contractor (ie. a registered Landscape Architect, Landscape Architectural Technologist, or Structural Engineer) review my work. Please contact me to discuss your project needs to determine the best course of action for your landscape drawings and installation.
What kind of visual options are there for seeing a design concept?
Providing feedback on site is the first step for you to explain what you want and me to gain an understanding of your expectations for your space. I do a whole lot of talking with my hands to, quite literally, point out my initial ideas and discuss options with you. An initial site layout in plan view (a top-down drawing to scale) is a good way to place the various features in your landscape before moving on to more detailed design. We can look at a variety of technologies for visualisation depending on your budget and suitability to the project. For example, we can add colour to a plan to help visualise, do up a fully rendered plan or 3D model, create a plant or material lookbook, lay out a seasonal planting chart for foliage and blooms, and send references to product websites or other helpful resources. Please also see photos of our work to give an idea of some of our past projects.
Plants are tricky, where do I start?
Yes they are! But they are a great addition to any space, so here are a few pointers. First, let us start with cold hardiness zones – the cold hardiness describes how cold it can get outside for a plant in winter to be able to survive and sprout again in the spring. Grande Prairie is often described as zone 3 but could be considered closer to a zone 2b (a bit colder than zone 3) especially with that famous winter wind that blows across the prairies. Edmonton is generally considered zone 3. This means that you can choose plants that are zone 1, 2, or 3 (with some special considerations in Grande Prairie). Zone 4 and higher are better suited to less cold climates or work well as houseplants. For Grande Prairie, I generally recommend a zone 2 option if one is available (some zone 3 plants have a similar family member that is more cold hardy), or if the space is sheltered enough then a zone 3 might work just fine. A common problem I see in garden centres is plants that are listed as a perennial (comes back each spring) but are a zone 5 or 7, for example. You can still plant these, but they are not likely to survive the winter, making them an expensive annual flower (only survives one summer). Or if you know this ahead of time, perhaps it becomes an indoor pot for the winter (watch for bugs though)!
Next, is plant type and care. I love using evergreen (green all year) and deciduous (leafs that fall in autumn) trees and shrubs, and perennial flowers, grasses, and groundcovers. Ensuring they are suited to the space is key in their success (ie. tolerance to wind, certain soil types, sun exposure, pests). The more information you can find on a plant the more you know to help it grow. A lot of information is available online, as a plant tag is only so big and may not have space for all the plant’s needs.
Drought-tolerant / xeriscape plants – these are fantastic options for long-term, low maintenance success. They generally only need rainwater once they are established but the key is to help them establish properly. Most plants need a fair bit of water for at least the first, and likely second, season to grow stable roots and adapt to the site. A bit of work up front will provide a great long-term result.
I have done up planting plans for clients in the past – it may provide exactly the starting point you need. I ensure the plants are for the correct cold hardiness zone, site conditions, and spaced properly for their average height and spread.
If you need advice on care for your plants including pruning, diseases, and pests, an arborist is the best person to take a look. I can recommend someone if you are looking for help.